North Korea
Part 1 • The Land of the Morning Calm
Unveiling the world's most isolated and mysterious country
◉◎◎◎ Crossing Tumangang
◉◉◎◎ A brief history of...
◉◉◉◎ Rise of Juche
◉◉◉◉ Cult of personality
Part 1 of the story unfolds historical, cultural, political and ideological background of North Korea.
Part 2 showcases ordinary life in the country and Pyongyang in particular - you can later read it here.
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Crossing Tumangang
Finally, the day has come - you assembled a group of daredevils and desperate travellers, got your separate international passport and a 5-day Korean visa, charged your camera to its full and deleted everything that can possibly be considered as western propaganda from all your devices.
Now off you go - ready to explore the world's most isolated country!
Russky Bridge, Vladivostok, Russia
However, it all begins in Vladivostok - a far eastern city in Russia.
Apart from their Southern neighbour, North Korea only shares borders with 2 countries - China and Russia. Same two countries seem to be their only friends, and therefore serve as gateways to the closed region.
Honestly, organising a trip to North Korea is not a big deal, even for European and American adventurers. Despite this fact, the annual tourist flow is very limited - up to 30,000 Chinese, 5,000 Westerners and 200 Russians. It took us only 8 people to make the biggest tourist group in the past 1,5 years.
Dalzavod and Zolotoy (Golden) Bridge, Vladivostok, Russia
Russia and North Korea are divided by 17 kilometres of Tuman river (Tumangang in Korean). Apart from being the shortest of all Russian international borders, this one is probably the most illegally crossed as well - both by Russians travelling to recreational areas and by refugees, trying to escape the North Korean regime.
We, of course, are crossing Tumangang legally and head straight to Vladivostok International Airport.
North Korean travelling salesmen at VVO-FNJ flight check-in, Vladivostok International Airport, Russia
If you expect to be the only passenger on the flight from Vladivostok to Pyongyang (like we did), you are terribly, terribly wrong. Things start to get real at the very check-in as you get in the queue with dozens of similarly-looking people, all dressed in the same rubbed out short-sleeve shirts with scarlet pins depicting North Korean leaders on their chests.
Each person carries 5-10 massive carton boxes wrapped in black plastic film with them, making an enormous line at the check-in desk.
As we have learned later, all these people are workers that North Korea leases out to China and Russia. They are rumoured to have built the Russky bridge before APEC 2012 summit and even some Olympic facilities for Sochi in 2014. For China and Russia such workforce costs almost nothing and is never confirmed to exist by authorities. Obviously, these builders work in poor conditions that sometimes lead to death and disability.
North Korean leased-out workers leave their homeland for up to 6 months, giving 90-100% of their pay to the government upon return. But they also have another important mission - to import into the country as many goods and foreign currency as they can. Hence the big black boxes that these passengers carry and give away at customs in Pyongyang.
Given almost inexistent international trade, these traveling salesmen are the primary source of foreign FMCG goods and dollars/euros/yuan for tourism industry and North Korean elite class.
Air Koryo's An-148, Vladivostok International Airport, Russia
Your time travel begins with Air Koryo - a state-owned airline and the only carrier to reach Pyongyang by air. As of 2018 their fleet consisted of 19 aircrafts, including 3 cargo planes, that fly to around 10 destinations in North Korea, 3 cities in China and Vladivostok. All operating airliners were made in either Russia, Ukraine or USSR and transferred to Air Koryo after long service in the airlines of these countries.
An-148 in this picture is quite new to Air Koryo - it was delivered to Pyongyang in 2013. Other aircrafts that tourists have to experience are the 1960-s classics: including the world's last Il-62, legendary An-24 and the first edition of turbofan-powered Tu-154A, conveyed to North Korean airlines back in 1974. Unlike these planes, international aviation laws developed over time - so that all Air Koryo flights have been banned from all EU territories as not meeting safety regulations.
Boarding the plane that is twice as old as you feels surrealistic. The board is divided into two parts: rear salon for travelling salesmen and deported illegal immigrants, front - for elite North Korean citizens (diplomats, local celebrities, jetset) and foreign tourists. Accompanied by patriotic marches that sound like Soviet military songs translated to Korean, the stewardess timidly distributes propaganda magazines, hands out chicken burgers with neon-coloured soda and helps to tighten flabby seat belts. Tensely creaking and shaking, the planes soars into the sky.
Sunrise in Pyongyang, North Korea
1.5 hours later you cross the border, document all your property, pass a thorough security control, convince customs that your Dostoevsky book has nothing to do with the Bible and meet your local guide.
In the next 4 days this guide becomes your only hope and punishment, your freedom gets limited to the space of a touring bus and decision-making turns out to be a useless skill.
But before we dive deeper into all charms and terrors of North Korean life, let us briefly recall the historical context.
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A brief history of...
History exhibition in Koryo Museum (former Songgyungwan), Kaesong
LHS: Main turmoil of the farmer's army in XII-XIII centuries, RHS: Relative cost of peasant women, men, kids, elderly and cows.
First Korean kingdom is believed to be found 5,000 years ago (Western scientists cite 2333 BC). Since that times, the kingdom that occupied the major part of Korean Peninsula suffered through Mongol invasion and numerous internal struggles. At that time internecine wars and serfdom were widespread. Notably, one cow was more costly than a family of peasant farmers with kids.
In XVI-XIX centuries the mighty neo-Confucian Joseon dynasty stood at the helm of the united land. It feels like under this government Korea managed to achieve such an incredible political, economic and cultural progress, that Joseon dynasty is still highly respected in both South and North Korea. Despite its modern official name – Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPR Korea) – internally North Korea is often referred to as Koryo or Chosŏn (“Land of the morning calm”). Both names originate from Joseon designation of the united Korean kingdom.
Waterfalls in Manphok valley, Myohyangsan
North Koreans trust that their homeland was the real Cradle of Humanity (how do you like that, anthropologists?) and became the starting point for the development of many modern cultures.
Jokes aside, Korean civilisation took a very distinct evolution path that made it one of the most culturally rich nations. Uneasy geography - over 80% of modern DPRK is located in mountainous area - contributed to crops cultivation problems and hunger issues on one side, but provided unlimited creative inspiration on the other.
International Friendship Exhibition centre, Myohyangsan
Largely inspired by mountains and nature, Korean architecture stands out for its bold style - roof slopes that flow like rivers, carved windows that resemble bark of ancient trees and painted walls that radiate colour like autumn foliage.
Traditional wooden architecture that formed under Silla and Goryeo (Koryo) dynasties is now being carefully preserved both in South Korea and DPRK. In North Korea many buildings (e.g. International Friendship Exhibition centre in Myohyangsan, Grand People's Study House in Pyongyang, etc.) closely replicate the traditional style, but in more modern materials - concrete, steel and marble.
Pohyonsa temple, Myohyangsan
Same architectural style was used for Buddhist structures like Pohyonsa temple. Built in XI century in Myohyansan mountains, it was bombed and almost destroyed during Korean war in 1953. Some of the original buildings survived and remain in place, serving as a museum for tourists and home for 3 monks that take care of the complex.
Historically, Korean culture was largely influenced by Buddhism and Christianity. Nowadays religion in North Korea is not officially forbidden but still largely discouraged by the government, which essentially means a ban for locals.
The tour guide proudly describes how the government preserves ancient Buddhist temples and even erects new orthodox Christian churches but never mentions that none of them are used for any religious purposes. Sadly these buildings mean more as a friendly gesture towards neighbouring cultures rather than any care of North Korean’s own legacy.
North Korea Peace Museum, Panmunjeom, DMZ
Since 1910 Korean peninsula was occupied by Japan. Numerous acts of organized national liberation struggle, led by Kim Il-sung's Democratic Front for the Reunification of the Fatherland in 1930-s, were violently suppressed and almost completely eradicated by the Japanese government. After the World War II in 1945 the USSR declared war against Japan and entered Korea from the North, while the US sent their troops to the South.
Once Japan surrendered, USSR and US decided to divide Korea in two parts by 38th parallel and facilitate elections of the new governments. The USSR-led part was named DPRK and the authority was transferred to Kim Il-sung.
Armistice negotiation hall, Panmunjeom, DMZ
Both Korean regimes dreamt to unite the peninsula under their own rule and even declared that goals in both constitutions. Once US and USSR left Korea in 1949, DRPK started poking the southern neighbour with numerous interventions that led to a 3-year war with UN and Soviet coalitions involved.
The opponents lost over 500,000 soldiers and destroyed 80% of each other's infrastructure before they realised the dead-end situation and sat in Panmunjeom to negotiate armistice.
Inter-Korean House of Freedom, Joint Security Area (JSA) at DMZ
On 27th of July 1953 the UN and DPR Korea signed a ceasefire contract. In North Korea this event is referred to as an unconditional and shameful defeat of America.
In fact, the war was just paused at the 38th parallel - opponents drew a demarcation line between two territories and organised a 4-km demilitarised zone (DMZ) around this artificial border. Up to this day, North Korean and united US - South Korean military forces stand face-to-face on both sides of the low concrete fencing that separates the Korean nation.
There is no peace treaty yet signed between two countries.
Arch of Reunification, Pyongyang
As we drive the Reunification highway - a road that used to connect Pyongyang and Seoul - and pass the Reunification Arch, our tour guide shares the news about recent reconciliation meetings between Kim Jong-un and Moon Jae-in.
Government officials of North and South Korea constantly proclaim unity as their key priority. However, neighbours are caught in a lose-lose situation - neither is ready to give up their authority in a reunited state. Potential integration of North Korea is also a painful solution for the South due to an irreparable gap in economic development.
“Korea is one” states a huge poster with a raised index finger. “DMZ: No weapons allowed” says the metal plate beneath it.
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Rise of Juche
Arch of Triumph, Poyngyang
In the heart of Pyongyang strands a massive, world’s second largest triumph arch - a monument designed to commemorate Korean resistance to Japanese occupation and victory shared with the Soviet army.
During partisan resistance and the first years of DPR Korea, the emerging communist government required a strong lever to unite the insurgent workers and gain popularity among the masses. The easiest was to unite against a common enemy - thus Japan and America were proclaimed the worst enemies of the Korean nation, responsible for decades of annexation and outbreak of war in the peninsula.
Part of Mansu Hill Grand Monument, Pyongyang
Apart from common enemies, North Korea also demanded for a common hero to admire. This role has been assigned to the communist rebel movement and personally to Kim Il-sung.
Juche Tower, Pyongyang
Looking up to the USSR, Kim Il-sung adapted the Marxism–Leninism theory for the Korean context. Since the inception of DPRK and to the present day, this adaptation, called Juche, is the official North Korean ideology that should be guiding the nation towards socialism.
Juche is based on conviction that one has enough power and ability to be the master of one’s own destiny. It also sees the nation as the powerhouse of revolution and construction of the true socialist society.
"Сonstruction" in DPRK is taken literally, there is a dedicated monument to almost every major event or idea. To put Juche ideology in stone, North Koreans built a 170-metre granite tower. It was designed to commemorate Kim Il-sung's 70th birthday and his son Kim Jong-il is credited as the lead architect. Inside there is a wall covered with over 80 metal plaques donated by supporters and researchers of Juche ideology from all over the world.
Monument to Party Founding, Pyongyang
Another major North Korean symbol is also adapted from the Soviet hammer and sickle. Korean communists completed it with a calligraphy brush to represent the workers, farmers and intellectuals respectively.
This symbol is associated with the Worker's Party of Korea - the ruling political force in charge of the ideology, technology and culture as well as (this fact is always missed in the tour guide's speeches) controlling the world's 5th largest army.
Chollima Statue, Pyongyang
Hard work and full determination plays an important role in North Korea, as in other communist regimes. Inspired by Stakhanovite movement, the Worker's Party of Korea sponsored Chollima movement that emphasised importance of the nation's effort for achieving an advancing pace of economic development.
Chollima in Chinese mythology is a flying course capable of traveling over 1,000 li (Chinese mile that equals 0.5 km) daily - or finishing a five-year plan in just four years.
North Koreans work hard to fulfil the Chollima promise - average worker gets through 8-10 hours per day, receives 1 day off per week and enjoys 14 days of vacation per year.
Rehearsals of moving human letters for the Liberation day parade, Kim Il-sung Square, Pyongyang
Widely celebrated national holidays are also free of any work on one hand. On the other, they require active participation in mass events, aimed at honouring Juche, the leaders, the party or the nation.
Few of the most important celebrations include Day of the Sun (Kim Il-sung's birthday), Day of the Shining Star (Kim Jong-il's birthday), Day of the Foundation of the Republic and Liberation day.
Marked-up square before the Worker's party monument, Pyongyang
Celebrations always comprise of visits to various monuments, performances, traditional dances and figured mass parades. In order to make the latter easier to orchestrate, all major squares in Pyongyang are marked out with the grid of white dots that guide the marching people.
Juche Tower at dawn, Pyongyang
The twilight falls on Pyongyang, but the light of the North Korean idea keeps shining. Juche Tower is capped with a 20-meter illuminated metal torch that constantly remains lit.
Pyongyang is strewn with immense concrete monuments, but they hardly serve as decorations. Instead, these monstrous structures transmit the peremptory superiority of the established ideology as well as negligibility to the subordinate populace.
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Cult of personality
Imagine you have successfully conducted a revolutionary coup, meticulously adapted your neighbour's experimental political regime and even established a bold and clear ideology for the whole country. But some things are not quite adding up in your people's minds - the country is still poor, hungry and dependent on support from both friends and foes. So how do you ensure blind submission of your people and eternal authority to yourself and your family?
The answer is clear - bake your own religion with a bittersweet isolation cherry on the top.
Newlyweds bowing before the Mansu Hill Grand Monument, Pyongyang
When you start thinking about the North Korean cult of personality (or even the whole Kim family cult) from a theological perspective, many parallels with Christian beliefs and foundations uncover.
Kim Il-sung (God the Father) and Kim Jong-il (God the Son) stand in the centre of North Korean pantheon, sometimes accompanied by Kim Jong-suk (Saint Mary) - wife of Kim Il-sung and mother of Kim Jong-il. They have always been supported by their comrades and associates (apostles), but those are not widely discussed. The current president, Kim Jong-un, plays a mediator role (pope): follows covenants of his grandfather and ensures that the previously indicated political goals are observed.
One of the key pilgrimage sites is Mansu Hill Monument - a memorial complex with 20-metre bronze statues of supreme leaders. The monument is frequently visited by locals, newlyweds and tourists; everyone is obliged to bow and leave flowers before the statues.
One bouquet costs an equivalent of 5 euro. Flowers are artificial, so they are collected and returned to the foot of the hill every day. Tourists are allowed to take photos of the monument, but statues must be captured in full.
Kim Il-sung's signature monument, DMZ
Same rule applies to any other depiction of the supreme leaders. They are treated as religious icons, therefore any damage caused to any image promises a lifetime in a labour camp for the violator.
North Korean won should only be kept in long flat wallets, in order not to fold cash coupons with Kim Il-sung portraits.
Same portraits are kept close to any North Korean heart - on a metal pin that should be constantly worn on the shirt.
The supreme leaders should be referred to as “the Great Leader Comrade Kim Il-sung and Great Leader General Kim Jong-il”. These titles rarely get shortened, but can be replaced with many synonyms, praising the Kims.
Painting of Kim Il-sung in Grand People's Study House, Pyongyang
Admiration for the supreme leaders borders with madness. Standing before an enormous painting in the city library, our tour guide explains that Kim Il-sung had proudly declared magnolia as a symbol of North Korean nation for its beauty, strength and modesty. It later turns out that the leader had once simply praised the beauty of this flower but it was enough to make it a national symbol.
Everything in the country is named after Kim Il-sung: streets, museums, stadiums and many-many more. North Koreans even nourished an idea to rename Pyongyang, but this was postponed till reunification. Birthday of the supreme leader is treated as day 0 in Juche chronology, making 2018 year 107 in DPRK.
Some botanic enthusiasts even hybridised a new type of orchid named Kimilsungia. As stated by the government, an eternal flower that grows on every continent, perfectly represents the unique character of the Great Leader.
International Friendship Exhibition, Myohyangsan
Psychopathy increases once you arrive to International Friendship Exhibition in Myohangsan that stores gifts presented to the supreme leaders by various foreign grantors. A graceful traditional building is, in fact, a concrete armed windowless safe deposit with 150,000 presents from over 100 countries.
This includes a giant Il-18 plane, over 30 bulletproof limousines by Mercedes and GAZ, a basketball from Michael Jordan, stuffed rare animals and thousands of other highly valuable items made of precious materials - all under one roof.
It is impossible to imagine how dramatically could the country change in case the authorities sold at least a quarter of these treasures. However, the exhibition is presented not only as a sign of international recognition of the Great Leaders, but also as their highest generosity. As explained by the tour guide, they never used these presents for themselves but rather kept them for their nation to admire. Such a wise and sound decision!
Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, Pyongyang
At the point when you feel fed up with all this madness, the funny farm strikes you even worse.
Palace of the Sun is a mandatory destination in the tour programme. It is essentially an gigantic mausoleum, but must never be referred to as such. After their deaths Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il received titles of Eternal President and Eternal Chairman respectively, got embalmed and were put in their former official residence. North Koreans believe that Eternal Leaders are still somewhat alive and regularly visit the Palace to have a mental conversation with both of their idols.
The day before the visit our tour guide finally admits that the rules are strict and must be obeyed. Anyone not ready to follow instructions at the Palace should stay in the bus to avoid serious consequences.
Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, Pyongyang
It is important to wear formal clothes to enter the Palace, even jeans are not allowed as a symbol of bourgeoisie and the Western way of life.
The visit takes around 1.5 hours. People move into the main building by long travolators, march in formations of 2 or 4, take turns entering two epic halls with dead bodies of the supreme leaders, bow before them from 3 sides on the guide's command and carefully study hundreds of the self-awarded medals.
For tourists it is important to stay humble and sad throughout the visit, but for locals the process is even more complicated. Once we enter one hall used for the dirge, a silent rehearsed tear appears on the faces of all tour guides.
Shocked and depressed, we exit the mausoleum into a 35-degree heat of Pyongyang and bump into a young Russian tourist. Having a second visit to DPRK, he brought along his father, a former Soviet warlord, to show an exaggerated version of the regime that he was part of.
The old gentleman, dressed in a military jacket with a rash of medals, looked impressed and slightly melancholic.
This is the end of Part 1
Click here for Part 2 of the story - it showcases ordinary life in the country and Pyongyang in particular
PS: Additional materials
If you want to see some of the North Korean propaganda magazines (like the one that we got on the plane to Pyongyang) or newspapers yourself, please refer to the websites below. Note that access to these websites can be restricted in some countries, as they are directly managed by Korean Central News Agency.
http://www.kcna.kp
http://www.korean-books.com.kp
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North Korea VIII18
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